With age comes character.

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“We’re trying to express much more than a straightforward fruit story. That spice is really important to us, which is one of the reasons we’re pretty keen to use whole bunches.”

Andrew Donaldson, a Pinot Noir specialist from New Zealand’s Central Otago, is leading me through a tasting of his two wines.
The spiced cherry, brown spices and leafy complexity, he says, are enhanced by using whole bunches in the fermentation. He’s also a fan of using whole berries.
“Everything we do now is whole bunch or whole berry, we don’t crush berries anymore,” he explains.